2014-05(May)-17: New Fragrances: Leather, Magnolia

It's been a busy six months! Besides making more of the existing soap varieties, I've also been developing new fragrances, including a reverse-engineering project for a client, which was a new experience for me.

First, the new fragrances. Magnolia is a simple one, because I only used one ingredient. The source of the essence is officially "White Champa," scientific name Michelia alba on the bottle, but according to Wikipedia it may actually be Magnolia x alba now. Regardless, it smells like the Magnolia that I know and love. More specifically, the magnolia seeds. The variety of magnolia grown in the southeastern United States has bright red seeds that dangle off the flower cones after the petals have all fallen off, post-fertilization. If you break open the red, fleshy skin surrounding the seeds, it has this almost mouth-watering fragrance, like some kind of fruity, tangy dessert. It's not so heady and buttery as the smell of the magnolia flower blossom, but I prefer the way the seeds smell.

White Champa CO2 extract is used in Abeda Deluxe, Chillax, and now available on its own. Cis-jasmone, responsible for that buttery magnolia blossom smell, is used in Savage Water. The White Champa essence is not cheap, and as a result the Magnolia soap is the most expensive fragrance I offer. I wouldn't have made it, but people begged me to, and promised they would buy it. Sample sizes are available for $2.00 (1/4 bar).

The other new fragrance I've been developing is Leather. Many people don't immediately think of leather when it comes to perfume, but it is one of the standard fragrance genres. I learned a lot from Perfume Shrine's many articles on the subject (at least 12!). Particularly useful were the article on leather's origins, and the one on production of leather perfumes. And of course, my teacher / mentor Ayala has written about leather. and sells leather perfumes. (I have yet to attend her teaching module on leather.)

After doing my homework, and reflecting on the matter, I ended up with a very brusque leather fragrance, quite literal, but I don't feel it's a bad first start. Ingredients are birch tar, cade, styrax, saffron, mimosa, tobacco, vetiver, spikenard, juniper, and cistus. Recipe is here. Bars are available for sale as of today.

ADDENDUM: I totally forgot to mention the chemical structures you can now view, at the Open Source Soap Learning Center. Currently you can view structures of several fragrance molecules, including citral isomers (neral and geranial), linalool isomers, and patchoulol (from patchouli). Requests are welcome, if you'd like to see the structure of a fragrance molecule.

Last Modified:
17 May 2014

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